Předávání zlatých cepínů, nejprestižnějšího ocenění alpinistů se uskuteční v rámci festivalu 17. 17. dubna 2016. Již 24. ročník po letech změní zajetý koncept (Chamonix a Courmayer) a v rámci Francie se přesune do horského centra La Grave pod vrcholem La Meije.

Finalisté vzejdou z užší nominace – tzv. „Big listu" – tedy velkého přehledu významných výstupů za uplynulý rok (2015). Letos vybrali Claude Gardien (Vertical Magazine) a Lindsay Griffin (American Alpine Journal) celkem 52 výstupů uskutečněných po celém světě, které si zaslouží nominaci na ocenění Piolet d'Or. O výběru finalistů a celkovém pořadí rozhodne devítičlenná porota složená z velkých osobností alpinismu: Valeri Babanov (RUS), Hervé Barmasse (ITA), Seb Bohin (FRA), Simon Elias (ESP), Yasuhiro Hanatani (JAP), Silvo Karo (SLO), Michael Kennedy (USA), Victor Saunders (UK), Raphael Slawinsky (CAN).

Zleva: Walter Bonatti a Reinhold Messner přebírající trofej Piolet d'or v roce 2010

 

Dopředu jistá je tradičně trofej za celoživotní přínos, kterou si převezme polská legenda Wojciech Kurtyka (narozen v roce 1947 v polské vesnici Skrzynka nedaleko české hranice). Zařadí se tak po bok dříve oceněných osobností: Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley a Chris Bonington. Kurtyka se proslavil technicky velmi obtížnými prvovýstupy v alpském stylu. Jedním z nejznámějších je například prvovýstup západní stěny Gasherbrumu IV (považováno mnohými znalci za výstup 20. stol.). Dalšími prvovýstupy jsou např: Kohe Tez (7015 m, severní žebro), Akher Chogh (7025 m, severozápadní stěna), Kohe Bandaka (6868 m, severovýchodní stěna), Changabang (6864 m, jižní stěna), Trango Nameless Tower (6239 m, východní stěna), po nových cestách vystoupil i na osmitisícové vrcholy: Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma (centrální vrchol), alpským stylem vystoupil i na Dhaulagiri.

Wojciech Kurtyka

 

52 nejzásadnějších výstupů roku 2015 – tzv. „Big list"
(v původním anglickém znění):

ASIA

 

NEPAL

 

Gave Ding (6,571m)

Mick Fowler, Paul Ramsden (UK)

First ascent, north buttress, 1,600m, ED+ Scottish VI

Nilgiri South (6,939m)

Hansjorg Auer, Alexander Blumel, Gerhard Fiegl

South face, ca 1,500m M5 90°

Notes: Fiegl killed on descent. Over Summit.

Thulagi Chuli (7,059m)

Ivan Dozhdev, Aleksander Gukov, Ruslan Kirichenko, Valery Shamalo (Russia)

First ascent, west face, Happy Birthday, 1,850m, TD+ AI4+ 5c M4

West Tawache (Taboche, 6,495m)

Skiy De Tray, Justin Griffin (USA)

Northeast pillar, not to summit, ca 1,100m, AI5 M5/6 R,

Notes: To top of face, descent by different route, Griffin killed on descent

Ama Dablam (6,856m)

Fleur Fouque, Sébastien Rougegré, Fanny Schmutz, Damien Tomasi (French)

Lagunak (south) ridge, first alpine-style ascent. 1,200m, TD+ F5 AI5 M4 90°

Notes: Over Summit

Chobutse (6,686m)

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Nepal)

West face, Dorjee Sherpa Route, ca 1,200m

Notes: Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, solo, evacuated from summit by helicopter.

Chugimago (6,258m)

Luka Strazar, Matej Mucic (Slovenia)

West face, 800m, AI4 M5

Dzasamptse (6,293m)

Julien Dusserre, Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, Mathieu Maynadier (France)

Northeast face, A la Verticale de la Peine, 700m, TD+ WI5-

Talung (7,439m)

Nikita Balabanov, Mikhail Formin (Ukraine)

North-northwest spur, Daddy Magnum Force, 1,700m, ED2 AI6 M6 A3

 

INDIA

 

Ri Pok Te (6,210m)

Anastasija Davidova, Matic Jost (Slovenia)

East face and southwest ridge, From East to West, 1,000m TD+/ED1 VI-

Notes: And other routes

Turpendeo (5,700m)

Andreas Abegglen, Thomas Senf, Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland)

First ascent, southeast pillar, Deokhal, 800m 6a/b

Cerro Kishtwar (6,173m)

Hayden Kennedy, Urban Novak, Manu Pellissier, Marko Prezelj (USA-Slovenia-France)

East face, Light before Wisdom, 1,200m, ED+ 5.11 WI6 M6 A2

 

PAKISTAN

 

First Link Sar West (6,938m)

Jon Griffith, Andy Houseman (UK)

Northwest face, Fever Pitch, ca 1,400m M4

Notes: Over Summit

K6 West (7,040m)

Scott Bennett, Graham Zimmerman (USA)

Southwest ridge, 1,800m, M6 90° ice

Dream Walker Peak (5,809m)

Maciej Bedrejczuk, Maciej Janczar, Tomasz Klimczak, Marcin Wernik (Poland)

North face, Rolling (D)ice, ca 1,450m, ED1/2 AI5 80° M5,

Changi Tower (ca 6,500m)

Scott Bennett, Steve Swenson, Graham Zimmerman (USA)

First ascent, north ridge, 600m, M6 5.10 A2

 

CHINA

 

Mt. Chu - San Lian Southeast (ca 6,250m)

Marcin Rutkowski, Wojtek Ryczer, Rafał Zając (Poland)

First ascent, east face, Hard Camping, ca 1,000m, ED2 M7 WI5 R

 

KYRGYZSTAN

 

Sedoy Strazh (Byeliy East, 5,481m)

Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev, Sergey Nilov (Russia)

First ascent, northeast face, Devjaty Val, 1,230m 6B

Notes: Over Summit. Awarded Russian Piolet d'Or.

Panfilovski Division East (ca 5,300m)

Ben Erdmann, Sam Johnson (USA)

East face, Flight of the Zephyr, 600m, AI4 R M7

Pik Panfilovski Division

Miha Hauptman, Uros Stanonik (Slovenia)

Northwest face, White Walker, 900m, AI5 M6

Pik Carnovsky

Anze Jerze, Miha Hauptman, Uros Stanonik (Slovenia)

West face, Mr Mojo Risin, 500m, AI5+ M5 R X

 

EUROPE

 

ALPS

 

Schneefernerkopf (2,875m)

Joachim Feger, Michael Wohileben (Germany)

West face, Optimist, 1,300m M6

Eiger, north face (exit ca 3,700m)

Simon Gietl, Robert Jasper, Roger Schali (Italian-German-Swiss)

Odyssee, 1,400m, 33 pitches, Redpoint 8a+

Classic Six North Faces

Tom Ballard (UK)

All solo and in one winter

Qualido (2,707m)

Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera, Matteo de Zaiacomo (Italy)

East face, King of the Bongo, ca 800m, 18 pitches, 7c+ (no bolts)

Matterhorn (4,478m)

Patrick Gabarrou and various partners over 13 years finishing with Pierre Gourdin (France)

South face, Padre Pio, échelle vers le ciel, 1,300m, 7a

Aiguille du Fou (3,501m)

Fabien Dugit, Cédric Lachat (France)

South face, Ballade au Clair de Lune, FFA at 8b

Pic Sans Nom (3,913m, Ecrins Massif)

Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet, Jonathan Joly (France)

North face, Le Prestige des Ecrins, 1,000m, M6+ 6a

Ailefroide Orientale (3,847m)

Alexandre Michel, Stefano Morino, Pierre Sauget (France)

North face, Winter is Coming, 700m, 550m new, F5 M5+ 80°

 

DOLOMITES

 

Torre Venezia (2,337m)

Nicolas Tondini, Emanuele Pellizzari (Italy)

South face, FWA of Rondo Veneziano, 470m, IX-

Condoriri Traverse

Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia-Alex Walpoth (Italy)

Civetta (3,220m), northwest face, Via Degli Studenti, 1,000m, VIII- A0

 

GREENLAND

 

Mirror Wall (ca 2,050m)

Waldo Etherington, Leo Houlding, Joe Möhle, Matt Pickles, Matt Pycroft (UK-S Africa)

Northwest face, ca 1,200m, E6 6b (5.12b) A3+

Ulamertorsuaq, Piteraq

Silvan Schupbach, Bernadette Zak (Switzerland)

Almost free ascent, 28 pitches, 7c R X with a three-metre pendulum

 

NORWAY

 

Trolltind (1,788m)

Marek Raganowicz, Marcin Tomaszewski (Poland)

Trollveggen, Katharsis, winter, ca 1,150m, VI A4 M7

 

RUSSIA

 

Mamison (4,319m)

Dmitry Romanenko, Vladimir Roshko (Ukraine)

North face, centre of Triangle (winter), 820m 6A

Bilibino, Commander

Hansjorg Auer, Jacopo Lacher, Siebe Vanhee (Austria-Italy-Belgium)

North face, Red Corner, 450m 7c+

 

NORTH AMERICA

 

CANADA

 

Malaspina (3,776m)

Natalia Martinez, Camilo Rada (Argentina-Chile)

First ascent, north flank and east ridge, 1,900m, TD AI2, 55-65°.

Great Cross Pillar (ca 1,690m)

David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe (USA)

South face, Deconstructing Jenga, 900m, 5.9+ A3+

Waddington, northwest summit (4,000m)

Paul McSorley, Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat (Canada-Germany-New Zealand)

Southwest buttress, 800m, ED1 5.11+ WI3 M5

Snowpatch Spire (3,084m)

Will Stanhope with Matt Segal (Canada)

East face, Tom Egan Memorial Route, FFA, 500m, 13 pitches, V 5.14

 

ALASKA

 

Devil's Paw (2,616m)

Simon Gietl, Roger Schaeli (Italy-Switzerland)

North summit, first ascent via northwest ridge, Black Roses, 1,000m, 6c A1 M4

Deborah (3,760m)

Jon Griffith, Will Sim (UK)

Northwest face and northwest ridge, Bad to the Bone, 2,000m

North Triple Peak (2,560m)

Tim Blakemore, Mike "Twid" Turner (UK)

Northwest face, No Country for Old Men, 800m, ED AI6

Citadel (1,988m)

Jon Bracey, Matt Heliiker (UK)

Northwest ridge

Jezebel, east summit (ca 2,870m)

Pete Graham, Ben Silvestre (UK)

First ascent, east face, Hoar of Babylon 1,200m, VI WI6 M6 A0

 

SOUTH AMERICA

 

BOLIVIA

 

Illimani (6,438m)

Thomas Arfi, Manu Chance (France)

South Face, Por la Vida, 1,200m WI5+

Notes: Over Summit

Condoriri Traverse

Juvenal Condori, Sergio Condori (Bolivia)

Nine summits, 14km to 5,648m, ED2 6a AI5+ M4

 

ARGENTINA - CHILE

 

Cerro Riso Patron Central (ca 2,550m)

Lise Billon, Antoine Moineville, Jérôme Sullivan, Diego Simari (France-Argentina)

East face, Hasta las Webas, 1,000m, ED- WI5+ M5

Reverse Torre Traverse (max 3,100m)

Colin Haley, Marc Andre Leclerc (USA-Canada)

Cerro Torre - Torre Egger - Punta Heron - Cerro Standhardt, Travesia del Oso Buda, 1,200m M6 6a+ C1

Cerro Adela Norte

Dani Ascaso, Lise Billon, Santiago Padros, Jérôme Sullivan (Spain-France)

East face, not to summit, Balas y Chocolate, 900m, ED+ WI5+ A2 M6+ X

Notes: Different descent.

AFRICA

 

MADAGASCAR

 

Tsaranoro Atsimo

Siebe Vanhee, Sean Villanueva (Belgium)

Fire in the Belly, 700m 8a+

Karambony

Hassan Gerami, Hamid Resa Shafagi, Farshad Mijoji (Iran)

The Change Experience, 442m 8b A2 (two pitches)

 

Zdroj: www.planetmountain.com, www.pioletsdor.com, lidé&HORY